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HERTS | BUCKS | BEDS

Lussmanns restaurant preview night

July 19, 2017

The arrival of Lussmanns in Tring has been eagerly anticipated. Back in November 2016 Andrei Lussmann announced that subject to planning permission he would be creating a restaurant in the fabulous Art Deco HSBC building. It seemed like the perfect partnership — high quality, but affordable dining with sustainably sourced food set in a beautiful historic building. Our little town was set to get a really exciting new place to eat out.

South Coast mackerel spring onion and dill potato cake, salsa verde

It’s been a joy to watch the restorations unfold and see this magnificent old building bought back to life. The way Lussmanns have shared the original features as they were uncovered, together with some of the new design details via their social media shows their passion for the project. It also invited us all into their world before the restaurant was even open, so we felt like we were on the journey with them. At the thought of the opening I for one was just as excited to see the architectural transformation as I was to try the food!

Wiltshire oak-smoked trout free-range egg and cress salad

So we weren’t quite first through the doors when it did finally open but not far behind. They had a very clever slow launch, starting with friends and family and then moving on to a discounted launch rate whilst the restaurant team were getting up to speed. Such a great idea, not that you would in any way feel like it was a new restaurant or rookie team. From the outset the service was polite and attentive and our food excellent. Andrei and Matthew, the Manager were both also there on the night and made a point of saying hello and chatting to us about the restaurant, the renovations and their opening nights. The team are just as excited to be in Tring it seems as we are to have them and Andrei even explained that this was actually his third attempt at securing a restaurant in Tring. That is commitment!

MSC South Coast hake pickled cucumber, dill and Devon crab

So how was that decor? As we know the restaurant is lucky to have retained many original features, including a fabulous parquet floor and the original Manager’s office which has been turned into a unique private dining room. Andrei himself oversees the design of his restaurants and it shows in the trademark mix of old and new. Where they haven’t been able to restore they’ve reclaimed, such as some original 1930s stained glass internal doors. The dark wood of the restored parquet and high arched window frames was beautifully offset against cream panelled walls and Farrow & Ball wall colours. The combination is striking and fits in perfectly with the Art Deco feel. The icing on the cake however was a number of original artworks and sculptures borrowed from the Natural History Museum which give it that authentic feel but also ties the newbie restaurant to its Tring Heritage.

Artworks borrowed from the Natural History Museum

The menu at Lussmanns is impressive in terms of choice. Fish is obviously a major theme but there is also plenty of choice for the carnivores available from the grill. From a gluten free perspective the menu was excellent as allergens were very clearly listed and plenty of options available.

Whole baked Torbay sole caper and nut-brown butter, summer herbs

We opted for entirely fish options (when in Rome…) My mackerel starter was the perfect mix of crispy skin and natural oiliness offset perfectly by tartness of the salsa verde. Matt’s trout was also melt in the mouth and a again the perfect combination of creamy texture and flavours. My sole main was everything it should be and perfectly cooked, delicious and just seemed to last forever! We chose to match mains with sides and it was interesting to see that even side dishes formed part of the specials menu with seasonal samphire being offered but equally many of the dishes also had a vegetable element so you could have done without. Unfortunately their was no room for desert for me (I stuck to the Hendricks and Fevertree) but Matt took up the mantle and made light work of the Honey and Thyme pudding.

Honey and thyme pudding caramel sauce and clotted cream ice cream

So are we excited about Lussmanns? Absolutely! It’s incredibly exciting to have a restaurant of this calibre in Tring. There was so much choice on the menu I feel I could eat there every night of the week and try something new. If the five dishes we ate between us are anything to go by the consistency of the quality of dishes is without doubt. The environment is relaxed and interesting but also feels special so you can really feel that you’re making night of it. I felt the price of the food for the quality was excellent and with some great set menu options you can actually eat here very reasonably. I admire the teams enthusiasm for our town and can see they’ve already made great inroads to bedding in, such as working with Tring Together prior to opening. I am without doubt that their launch and everything that follows will be a huge success. Can’t wait to get back!

Photos by Matthew Bishop Photography

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